beyondtheduero

Cáceres

The Sunday magazine’s international property article pronounced Cáceres, Extremadura the new Tuscany

True, the view of the provincial capital from the east is a little Toscano: the city walls fall away to open farmland and the towers of the musulmanes rise sentry’d above them; occupants long departed
The honey stone is unbroken from one end of the city to the other
Cáceres is a worthy UNESCO World Heritage City

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There are two more in Extremadura: Trujillo and Mérida
The Plaza Mayor in Trujillo is extravagant and theatrical; the old granite city stoic and steadfast above it
But the historical centre of Cáceres is monumental and enticing in a way that Trujillo isn’t

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Grand palaces stand so close to each other; looking up awkward angles are emphasised by shards of cobalt sky
Streets twist tightly between the noble structures
Steps dive and rise and slivers of views are cut by opposing palacios
The topography pulls you from one place to another and bearings are quickly lost
The concentration of heritage is heady

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You can fault Cáceres from the north, south and west, where a modern city of nearly a hundred thousand people has compromised the old city
Ungainly and ignorant of its virtue
Remeniscent of the old and new cities of Fez in Morocco

But Cáceres isn’t complacent; WOMAD, the World of Music, Arts and Dance is celebrated regularly through the old plazas
It was also candidate for the European City of Culture in 2016

San Sebastian was awarded the honour; Cáceres overlooked
I haven’t been to San Sebastian but it would take a lot to vanquish Cáceres based on patrimony alone

photography and text by Tim Harris
This entry was published on May 30, 2017 at 6:30 pm. It’s filed under Extremadura, Spain, Travel and tagged , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

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